London Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2014

DAY ONE

YEASHIN - Summer Afternoon Party

Bright green leaves adorned garments as though they’ve floated down from the trees. This collection had a childlike essence with ruffles and beads on pretty 60s style shift and baby doll dresses made of satin and chiffon panels in contrasting bright candy colours. A summer afternoon party with a fairytale twist.

BERNARD CHANDRAN

All that glitters is not gold, but it is definitely Chandran’s SS14 collection! This was a Galactic princess with high caped necklines revealing a plunging back, bejewelled harness dress straps, a 3D circular motif of square beads stacked upright like dominoes before they topple over and a tinsel halo.

DAY TWO

HOLLY FULTON

Think lazy hazy summer days and glittering glamorous nights of the 70s.  The large collection included fluid silk shirt dresses, flowing maxi skirts, pyjama silk lounge suits and pinafore dresses with fan shaped bibs.  Juxtaposing with the soft fabrics of silk and denim, was the stiffer textured cork adorned with appliqué and laser cut patterns.

DAVID KOMA

Focusing on Kyudo, the Japanese martial art of archery, the collection concentrated on structure with thick leather strips in both white and black providing the frame and weight for the sculptural shapes.  Eaborate harness straps represented the ‘muneate’ or chest protector worn by female archers and horizontal stripe prints emulated the patterns created by the lines of tiny steel plates on Samurai armour.  Colour palette began with no nonsense monochrome, softened with the serenity of dusty pink, pale blue and nude then ended on a strong clear note of Royal blue and white.

ASHLEY ISHAM

Inspired by the 1967 French film ‘Belle de Jour’ starring Catherine Deneuve. the collection started with soft summer tweed dresses  followed by floral embroidered panels on dresses and shorts. For that clandestine rendezvous cloche hats covered the face with only lace peep holes for the eyes. Transparent PVC as shawls and skirts encrusted with hand appliquéd lace brought an edginess to the collection.  After the chic daywear came the glamour of the evening gowns. Simple fluid jersey gowns revealed they were actually one piece pant suits as the models glided down the catwalk, whilst ornate embroidered appliqué stopping at knee length on long organza skirts created the mermaid silhouette.

DAY THREE

MERCEDES KIEV FASHION:

Anton Belinsky - Using a colour palette considered to be very Ukrainian; natural fabrics of silk, leather, linen and wool to create texture and designing comfortable oversized garments, Belinsky blends his heritage with street fashion.

Anna K – Sheer organza dresses breezed in with just a hint of ruffle; organza overlays created girliness to practical shorts and tops whilst cute rows of tiny ruffles adorned trousers. Accessories included transparent handbags, a collaboration with Proskurovskar

DAY FOUR

Multi designer showcase FASHION INTERNATIONAL presented a mix of new designers and the more established:

Yuvna Kim – Bijoux

As though sprinkled with fairy dust, the diaphanous georgette gowns sparkled with crystals, beads and pearls in designs with a nod to 1920s French art deco.

Gianni Lilliu

Inspired by the sculptor David Begbe’s studies of the female form in steel and bronze mesh, Lilliu interpreted this into his collection with stiff crystal organza. Framed and sculpted into peplums and boleros, the organza created a holographic sheen over the softer silk fabric of the dresses.

DAY FIVE

ONG-OAJ PAIRAM

Drew Barrymore’s character Gertie in E.T. was the inspiration. Fusing Gertie’s childish curiosity, mischief and creativity with the housewife of the 1950s, the new modern woman became bold and confident without losing her playful side. Silk satin shirt dresses teamed with contrasting skinny belts in canary yellow or red, ranged from the pleated skirt to one resembling a baseball shirt. Didn’t really get the Gertie inspiration, instead saw a celebration of springtime with clusters of large flowers and butterfly appliqués blossoming on white PU skirts, daffodil yellow and poppy red sheath dresses;   grass green gingham bomber jackets  and ethereal daisy prints floated on light airy chiffon tops and gowns.  How could E.T. not want to stay?

By Karen Grace

Personal Shopper & Image Consultant for Frumpy to Funky http://www.frumpytofunky.com